Leash Problems

Exercise is a major part of our dogs' lives. Cesar Millan, the "Dog Whisperer", tells us that to maintain a healthy relationship with our beloved pooches, that relationship should consist of 50% physical exercise, 25% discipline, and 25% affection. That's a lot of exercise!

In order for us to be able to enjoy exercising our dogs as much as they need, it's important for them to behave well both on the lead. Unfortunately, there are many dogs out there who are afraid of the leash itself -- resulting in neurotic, fearful, submissive behavior whenever the lead comes out.

In this article, we'll take a look at the most effective way to deal with fear of the leash.

Fear of the Leash

The majority of the time, the sight of the leash is enough to bring on a fit of joy -- the dog knows that leash means walk, and reacts accordingly.

For some dogs, though, the leash connotes fear and submissiveness more than anything else. Perhaps the leash was used in a negative way with a previous owner -- as a tool for dragging the dog around. Perhaps it was used to confine the dog for long hours at a time. In some extreme cases, dogs have even been whipped with the leash as punishment. Or perhaps your dog is just very highly strung, and is prone to developing phobias seemingly arbitrarily.

Although fear of the leash can have a severely negative impact on your walks with your dog, the good news is that it's easy to cure. You just need some patience and some basic equipment.

What you'll need

- A leash, made of webbing or leather. Approximately 5 feet (1.25 meters) is a good length, as it enables control without risk of the dog getting tangled in the leash when out walking. Chain-link leashes aren't recommended, as they're hard on the hands -- and also can flick the dog in the face, which isn't something you'd want to inflict on any dog, let alone one that's suffering from fear of the leash!

- A good-quality collar, again made of leather or nylon webbing. If you're using one with a snap-lock, make sure it's safety-approved and won't come undone under pressure. Slip-chain collars (also known as 'choke-chains' or 'check-chains') should never be used on an unattended dog, as they're a training tool, not a real collar.

- A little bit of time, and a little bit of patience.

What to Do

- Your aim here is to accustom your dog to the lead a little bit at a time, keeping him well within his comfort zone at each step of the way. Because he's already got a fear of the leash, some discomfort in its presence is to be expected, but watch out for signs of extreme fear: hyperventilating, drooling, submissive urination, rolling eyes (often showing the whites).

So step one: remember to take baby steps at all times!

- If he's really afraid of the leash, you'll need to accustom him to it very slowly indeed. Practice leaving it out in full view, preferably in 'fun' places: next to his food bowl, in preferred play areas, near his bed.

- Once he's stopped reacting to the sight of it, introduce the leash to him in a more active manner. You can do this by wrapping it around your hand as you pet and groom him. Hold the leash in your hand as you prepare his food; sit by him and stroke him, with the leash wrapped around your hand, as he eats. Keep this up until he's stopped showing any signs of discomfort -- it may take some time, but remember that you're aiming to accustom him comfortably to the leash. Any rushing is counterproductive.

- When he's not showing any signs of nervousness with this level of progress, you can start attaching the leash to his collar. Put him in a sit-stay, using a firm, calm voice, and clip the leash on. Don't make a big deal out of it: your dog will take his emotional and psychological cues from your behavior. If you act as though it's not a big deal, he'll follow your lead.

- Once the leash is on, give him some time to get used to the sensation of something hanging off his neck. He may get a little panicky at this stage, and start pawing at his neck and trying to rub the leash off along the ground. If he's showing signs of nervousness, distract him with a game: a short game of tug-o'-war (providing he knows to drop the toy when you've had enough) is a good idea; if he can run without getting tangled in the leash, play a short game of fetch; or, if the two of you are outside in a safely enclosed area, you can go for a short walk. Don't attempt to touch the leash at this stage, just let him walk around freely.

- Take the leash off after five minutes or so, and praise him lavishly for being such a good boy. Give him a couple of small, tasty treats, and lots of petting.

- Repeat these last three steps several more times before progressing to the next level: you want to give him plenty of opportunities to get used to the sensation of the leash itself before you start using it to control his walking. The more positive associations he forms with the leash (which he will do through the games, walks, and treats while wearing it), the better for his progress.

- Next, it's time for a short obedience-training session while he's wearing the leash. Five minutes is plenty: practice a sit-stay and the recall command ("come") while he's wearing the leash. This will reinforce your authority and leadership, and remind him that he's still expected to obey you while wearing the leash.

- When he's readily obeying your commands with the leash on, you can take him for a short walk while he's wearing it. If he's jumpy, do not reinforce his nervousness by rewarding him with attention. Simply ignore him and carry on walking. Remember, he takes his cues from you, so keep calm and wait for it to pass.

- If, at any point, you feel that he's simply too nervous to proceed (for example, if he's still panicking after three or four minutes of walking on the leash), go back to the level at which he was last 100% comfortable. Wait a few days at this stage before attempting to proceed.

Things to Remember

- Remember to be patient! Don't attempt to rush your dog's progress: using force is counterproductive to your end goal. You're teaching him to relax and be calm around the leash -- if you get stressed or frustrated with his lack of progress, he'll be able to tell, and his anxiety levels will increase, not decrease.

- Remember not to indulge his nervousness or coddle him if he plays up or gets nervous. If you react to his crying and trembling with petting and cooing, you are telling him that it's OK to feel like that. If he's nervous, either ignore it and carry on, or distract him with a game or short walk. If he's still panic-stricken after three or four minutes, revert to the previous step and give it more time.

- This should go without saying, but never correct or punish him for skittishness or nervous behavior -- again, it's counterproductive in the extreme.

For Further Information

For more information on a variety of leash-related problems, as well as a detailed look at the whole spectrum of common canine behavioral problems, you may want to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's a comprehensive training compendium for the responsible owner, and covers just about every topic you could ever need for building and maintaining a happy, healthy relationship with your dog.

Information on housetraining your puppy: http://www.pet-training.info/Dogs/Recommends/Potty_Professor

Introducing the Family Dog to the New Baby

After welcoming a baby in to the world you are probably concerned about how your dog is going to react to him or her. Many people surrender their pets to shelters because of exhibited jealousy from their dog after a new baby's arrival and fear of the infant being harmed by the animal. Yet many families have been successful in introducing their dogs to the new baby. Introducing your dog to you baby is a process that needs time and the utmost of care to ensure a happy and safe welcoming process! The steps to ensuring your dog acts appropriately around the baby when he or she is finally taken back to your home are twofold usually -- preparing your dog for the infants arrival and introducing your dog to your infant.

Preparing your dog:

Preparing your dog for the baby's arrival in advance is one of the best ways to help avoid friction and jealousy between your baby and your dog. Your dog is used to your attention and pampering, some jealousy will naturally surface when your new baby becomes the center of attention. Taking some precautions, a few minutes of quality time and some extra treats can go a long way! Be sure to:

� Take your dog to your local Veterinarian for a complete checkup a few months before the baby arrives.

� Worms and parasites can be harmful to your baby so be sure to worm your dog before the baby arrives and at the normal intervals to keep on top of this problem. If your dog is not spayed or neutered, this is also the time to get it done.

� Encourage friends with infants to visit your home to accustom your pet to babies. Supervise all pet and infant interactions.

� Allow your dog to explore the baby's sleeping, diaper changing areas, and related items such as baby powder, lotions, and diapers to become familiar with the new smells and objects. Apply baby lotion or powder to your hands, for example, and allow your dog to sniff the new smell. Dogs rely on their sense of smell, so familiarity with the new baby smells will help him or her recognize the baby as a part of the family. If possible, allow your dog to smell clothing that your baby has used before you bring the baby home.

� Accustom your pet to baby-related noises months before the baby is expected. For example, play recordings of a baby crying (there are CDs out now for this exact training purpose -- (see www.soundtherapy4pets.com/ for CDs with baby noises), turn on the mechanical infant swing, and use the rocking chair. Make these positive experiences for your pet by offering a treat or playtime.

� Do not allow your dog to sleep on the baby's furniture or play with the baby's toys. Your dog should know that the furniture is not for him or her and should treat it as such. Provide toys for the dog that do not resemble baby toys. A dog may take the toy from the baby's hand and unintentionally injure the infant.

� If the baby's room will be off-limits to your pet, install a sturdy barrier such as a removable gate (available at pet or baby supply stores) or, for jumpers, even a screen door. Because these barriers still allow your dog to see and hear what's happening in the room, your dog will feel less isolated from the family and more comfortable with the new baby noises.

� Use a baby doll to help your pet get used to the real thing. Carry around a swaddled baby doll, take the doll in the stroller when you walk your dog, and use the doll to get your pet used to routine baby activities, such as bathing and diaper changing.

� Finally and very importantly, be sure that your dog knows that you and your family are alpha over him or her -- this is crucial to ensure you can reprimand your dog should any jealous signs show when the baby is brought home.

Introducing your dog to your infant:

The actual introduction of your dog to your newborn baby is of utmost importance and the first few meetings can often dictate how your dog responds to your baby in an ongoing basis. For this reason, it is crucial to undertake the introduction process slowly and properly. Tips for the first meeting include:

� When the baby comes home, another person should hold the baby while you greet your dog. Your dog has missed you and it is important to pay attention to him or her when you first get home.

� Greet your dog happily and bring him or her a new toy as a gift to associate the baby with something positive. After your dog's excitement about your homecoming has dissipated you should start introducing your baby to the dog.

� If you are unsure of you dog's behavior, leash or restrain him or her during the introduction. Talk to your dog, pet and encourage him or her to get a good look and sniff the baby's hands and feet. Do not force a reluctant dog by pushing the infant in front of the pet. Allow the pet to explore the new smells at their own pace. Never leave your baby unsupervised with your pet. An infant is incapable of pushing the animal away and your dog may inadvertently smother the child. The actions of a baby may scare your dog and cause it to bite in self-defense. If your dog reacts aggressively, put him or her in another room until it is calm and try the introduction again.

� After the initial greeting, you can bring your pet with you to sit next to the baby; reward your pet with treats for appropriate behavior. Remember, you want your pet to view associating with the baby as a positive experience. Again, to prevent anxiety or injury, never force your pet to get near the baby, and always supervise any interaction.

� Life will no doubt be hectic caring for your new baby, but try to maintain regular routines as much as possible to help your pet adjust. And be sure to spend one-on-one quality time with your pet each day � it may help relax you, too. With proper training, supervision, and adjustments, you, your new baby, and your pet should be able to live together safely and happily as one (now larger) family.

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like accustoming your dog to children), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog's learning.

More information on training your dog here.

Fear Biting

A fear-bite is a bite that occurs out of sheer panic. It's not to be confused with dominance-aggression, which is a sign of deep-set personality problems; a fear-biter isn't necessarily a 'fierce' dog. He's just scared.

Why does fear-biting happen?

A fear-biter bites because it's his only way of expressing his extreme fear or panic, and his only way of telling his owner that he can't handle the situation.

Almost all cases of fear-biting are actually caused by well-meaning, but ill-advised, humans: they see what's clearly a scared dog, and -- intending to either comfort the dog or to show him that there's 'nothing to be afraid of' -- they approach too close, and push an already-anxious dog over the edge.

Dogs can't ask us to please leave them alone. They can't tell us that something's bothering them, or that they need some space: all they can do is sign the message to us through their body-language.

It's easy to tell when a dog's feeling scared or panicky once you know what to look for. Fear-biting never just happens 'out of the blue': it only occurs when people ignore the signs.

Fear-biting: the warning signs

Fear-biters are submissive dogs. When faced with a new situation or unfamiliar people, they do not react with the customary effortless confidence of a well-socialized, well-adjusted dog: instead, they become nervy and on edge.

A scared dog, when faced with the unfamiliar, will assume a distinctively submissive posture, and will display several marked behaviors. The more common of these are listed below.

Posture

- Tail tucked (or, if docked, the back legs will crouch down and the haunches will 'tuck') - Hunched, lowered back - Ears flat against the head - Elbows bent in a slight crouch

Behaviors

- Excessive panting (hyperventilating) - Yawning (an attempt to reduce tension) - Avoidance of eye contact - In extreme cases, a dog may also urinate or defecate out of fear

What makes some dogs into fear-biters?

All dogs undergo what's called a fear-imprint stage when they're about eight weeks old, and another one at about fourteen weeks. During this period of a dog's formative puppyhood, he's significantly more prone to 'spookiness': being excessively startled by new experiences and situations. If a dog has a scare during this time which isn't properly dealt with by the owner (ie, after receiving a scare, he isn't then taught not to be frightened of that thing), he may develop a life-long phobia towards that object.

For example, if he's been frightened by a repairman arriving at the door unexpectedly, and isn't then acclimatized to that person, he may develop a long-standing phobia of men who resemble that repairman (men with beards, men in overalls, men holding toolboxes, etc).

Some dogs are also just highly-strung and more prone to anxiety because of their breeding. Certain breeds -- typically, the more intelligent ones, and the ones emotionally dependent on close, regular interaction with humans -- have proven themselves more likely to develop phobias and excessive shyness than other, more emotionally stable breeds. A few of these 'anxious' breeds include Weimaraners, Great Danes, and Border Collies.

A history of trauma or abuse is another major cause of fear-biting: many abandoned or abused dogs develop anxiety problems, which, without proper treatment, may progress into fear-biting.

The difference between shyness and fear-biting

It's quite natural for some dogs to exhibit signs of shyness towards unfamiliar situations. It doesn't mean that that dog is a 'difficult dog', or that he will grow up to be a fear-biter -- some shyness is to be expected in almost all dogs at one point or another.

Shyness only becomes a problem when it begins to interfere with the course of daily life: when a dog can no longer be trusted around strangers, for example, or if his behavior is endangering his own safety (scared dogs often bolt, sometimes across busy roads), or when your own life becomes significantly restricted by your dog's fear.

How to cope with fear-biting

First of all, make sure your own attitude to the problem is realistic. While the behavior of a fearful dog can often be significantly ameliorated by careful training and acclimatization, on other occasions -- and sometimes, despite your best efforts -- a dog will remain fearful to the end of his days.

You cannot force your dog to overcome his fear. Treatment requires patience, persistence, and consistency: rough treatment (anger, frustration, shouting, a take-no-prisoners approach) usually worsens the problem, because it increases the dog's anxiety levels instead of decreasing them.

You cannot train a scared dog not to bite: he's responding to a powerful blend of instinct and sheer panic. No training in the world can counteract these two things -- as motivators, they're just too strong.

What you can do is, firstly, build up your dog's confidence, to reduce his overall anxiety and tension levels; and, secondly, pay close attention the cause of his fear, and work to desensitize him to it.

Building up his confidence

Obedience training is a great vehicle for doling out praise and rewards: simply dispensing treats at random won't do any good, since the issue here is drawing attention to achievement and good behavior (your dog can tell the difference between an earned and an un-earned reward!).

Start small, with basic obedience classes, and practice the commands for five to ten minutes every day.

Remember to set him up for success: start off with the easy commands, and make sure he's thoroughly comfortable with them before progressing to the next level. Always treat and praise liberally for good behavior.

Desensitizing him to the fear-object

Desensitizing your dog is all about slowly accustoming him to whatever it is that's eliciting the fear response, at a pace that's comfortable for him.

The emphasis is on maintaining comfort levels: your aim here is to keep your dog happy and serene (as much as possible), so that he learns through direct experience that the cause of the fear isn't actually scary after all.

So if he's afraid of, say, the vacuum cleaner, start integrating it into daily life. Remember to move slowly and not to push him too far, too fast: start by simply leaving it out in a prominent position, where he'll have lots of incidental contact with it (for example, in the middle of the lounge carpet). Allow him plenty of opportunity to sniff it and walk around it, Play with him near it; feed him near it. Integrate the object or the situation (whether it's the garbage truck, strangers approaching the door, small children, driving in the car) into normal, everyday life as much as possible.

Counterconditioning

Once he's become desensitized enough to the fear-object that he's reasonably calm around it (so, he might be exhibiting signs of fear, but isn't panic-stricken to the point of wetting himself or hiding), you can start counterconditioning: teaching him to associate good things with the fear-object. You can do this by dispensing treats liberally, and doling out lavish praise for any improvements in his fear-levels.

Do's and Don'ts

Do:

Cue your dog. He takes his emotional and psychological cues from you, so make sure you're a good role model. Adopt a straightforward, no-nonsense attitude, and stick to it. When he's frightened, talk to him in a relaxed, don't-be-silly manner, keeping your tone matter of fact and direct.

Socialize him frequently and thoroughly. Even though the most critical socialization period is from eight to sixteen weeks, it should still be an ongoing process throughout your dog's life. The more opportunity he has to accustom himself to the ways of the world, the easier it will be for him to see that, really, there's not much to be scared of.

Be patient and move slowly. Don't try to rush your dog, or force him to confront objects, people, or situations that he's scared of -- you're trying to countercondition his learned fear-reflex, and you're not going to do that by teaching him to associate feelings of anxiety with the fear-object.

Pay attention to his body language at all times. Some whining and trembling are OK, but if he's wetting himself, hyperventilating, and showing the whites of his eyes, he probably needs some space. Even though a fear-bite isn't inflicted out of a direct desire to cause harm, it's still a bite, so give him what he needs!

Don't:

Crowd him. Scared dogs need space, more than anything else -- you won't make things easier for him by entering his 'personal bubble'. If he's really scared, back off, and wait for him to approach you.

If he's hiding, or strenuously resisting your direction, pay attention to what he's trying to tell you: that he's not comfortable enough to proceed yet. Forcing him outside his comfort zone is when bites happen.

Don't coddle him or reward his fearful behavior with special attention. It's great to praise, pet, and cuddle him for good behavior, increased calmness, and being brave enough to approach/sniff/explore the object of fear -- it's not good to reward him for fearful behavior. Save the special attention for when he deserves it: remember to reward the behavior you wish to see repeated; ignore the behavior you don't.

For further information

For more information on problem behavior in dogs, check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's a comprehensive training manual for dog-owners, and covers just about everything you could ever want to know about raising a happy, healthy, well-adjusted dog: from canine psychology to dog whispering to preventing and handling problem behaviors to obedience training, Secrets to Dog Training has it all covered.

Learn what vets know.

Is Your Dog Filling Up on Fillers?

Contributed by Sharda Baker

You can never underestimate the importance of understanding the AAFCO pet nutrition standards and of knowing how to read dog food labeling when choosing a commercial diet for your pet. The AAFCO will give its approval to both low and high quality ingredients, and unless you know exactly what's in the commercial pet food your dog is getting, you might think everything is just fine.

But there have been problems with many of the lower quality dog foods and the ingredients that are used that have been brought to light recently. Speaking of problems with dog food will of course trigger the memory of the most recent devastating loss of canine and feline lives due to contaminated food.

Various dog food recall reports indicated the numbers of affected cats and dogs hit the 39,000 mark across the country. Animals became extremely sick or died due to the contamination of commercial pet foods with an industrial chemical -- melamine, used to make plastics and fertilizers. This chemical was found in more than 100 brands of pet food that were recalled in Canada and the USA starting in mid-March.

The major culprit was identified as rice protein concentrate (otherwise called rice gluten), NOT brown rice. Then, concerns were raised about reports of acetaminophen (Tylenol) being found in dog and cat food, followed by salmonella poisoning in others.

The second chemical also found with the melamine was cyanuric acid - deadly when combined. Both were found in the cat and dog food recall in March 2007. Cyanuric acid is commonly used to slow the breakdown of chlorine in swimming pools and hot tubs. It has NO place in pet food!

It was speculated then (and some still hold the same opinion now) that those two chemicals were in dog food because it was a sneaky and unethical way to increase the reported nitrogen content. But the rice gluten contaminate with the melamine was simply what is known as a "filler>"

The dog food recall of those contaminated pet foods has done nothing to stop the use of fillers in lower grade commercial dog foods. Many pet food manufacturers keep their costs down by loading then with bulk which has absolutely no nutritional value. Your pet's food could one or more of a number of fillers, including:

* Cereal by-products * Cottonseed hulls * Citrus pulp * Peanut hulls * Weeds * Straw * Corn and corncobs * Feathers * Soy

These fillers are unfortunately used in the place of quality fiber, and can irritate the walls of your pet's intestines. Yet as food prices continue to rise, the use of fillers will undoubtedly continue so that dog food manufacturers can keep their costs down.

Even the meat meals which you might think are protein sources in your pet's food, if they are not of good enough quality, are nothing more than fillers. All the plant materials used as fillers carry a risk of toxic herbicide and pesticide contamination, and soy is one of the top cited allergens by veterinarians, which causes severe allergic reactions. Reactions can include coughing, sneezing, runny nose, hives, diarrhea, facial swelling, shortness of breath, swollen tongue, difficulty swallowing, fainting, and anaphylactic shock.

Higher end brands of dog food, are products both devoid of any byproducts, and containing the healthiest choice of carbohydrates, protein, fiber, and other nutrients.

These nutrients are best when provided with a recognizable name and not some chemical number. Avoid obscure listings like potato product, rice or peanut hulls, and grape pomace. Look for something more recognizable than words that give you only a vague notion of what you are feeding your dog.

Diligence is required in avoiding these foods as many of them are masked with euphemisms and phrases such as "Moist, chewy" or "contains vegetables," among many more.

Pet food manufacturers pay people good salaries to come up with the words which will entice you to buy their products. You need to know how to read the ingredients behind the descriptions, and decide if they really belong in the dish of your best pal. Don't let your dog fill up on fillers!

About the Author:

Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the Internet best selling "Complete Guide to Your Dog's Nutrition"

Visit the link below now for Sharda's Special Free dog food Report.

More information on nutrition for your dog here.

Dogs and Lifestyle

For some, these two notions might seem too far apart to present any similarities. But still, more than we know, dogs as object of our love or repulsion, affect our lifestyle.

Each and every one of us has gone through at least one experience that included a dog. Whether sad or fortunate, these experiences exist and cannot be ignored. As every other marking moment, emotions triggered by a dog at some point influence our ways from that moment on.

Just for fun, I want to show you what I mean by giving a rather unknown example to prove my point.

Let's say you are over 30 and tried already every diet in the world to loose a few pounds. And naturally, nothing worked. Well, one evening, rainy evening of course, you come across a little fluffy puppy abandoned just next to the garbage can in front of your house. You don't necessarily like dogs, but this one seems different and so alone, maybe even a little sick, that you feel pity for him and take him in...just for the night. And then you keep him another night, and another one till he officially becomes your pet - you can't deny it anymore. You walk him every day at fixed hours and, although you forgot all about your weight problem being too busy living with your little pet, you amazingly reached undreamed results in that particular problem. Surprised?

You shouldn't be, it's known (by some at least) that regular daily 10 - 15 minutes walks are the best diet of all. Try them on your own and you might get bored and give up. But with a dog, the walks are a must, they have to be done, you can't miss any of them.

So, the little innocent dog not only made you a better person since you let him into your house (and heart), but also solved the problem you had that all your determination and lost money on diet products couldn't solve.

If I wasn't convincing enough, just try it. Get a dog. And miraculously you will be a different person.

Information on housetraining your puppy: http://www.pet-training.info/Dogs/Recommends/Potty_Professor

How Much Time Can Dogs Stay Alone?

If you are going to leave your dog alone for a long period of time, then don't be surprised with the behavior issues he might develop. Being alone, he deals with two big problems. The first one is the physical and emotional discomfort, because he sees he is free and he doesn't know what he is allowed to do and what he isn't. Sometimes stress is added because he is afraid of doing something that can get him punished. The second problem comes out of the need of a dog to be permanently around people or other dogs.

If it is a small dog, he should be familiarized to his environment. If a little dog is to be left alone the entire day, then make sure he has enough water and that a big part of the room he is left in will be covered in papers. A small dog needs to satisfy his physiological needs every three hours. Do not under any circumstances leave the dog locked in the doggy house without giving him access to water. You should let him stay in a small room, for example the kitchen.

A good idea might be coming home during your lunch break or hiring someone to walk your dog. This way, he gets a chance to meet other people and dogs and this helps you prevent a home disaster.

Experts recommend that we spend a few hours a day with our dog and to introduce him to as many friends and neighbors as we can until he turns 7-12 weeks old, because at this age, the puppy has the capacity to understand some situations.

If you have an adult dog, that needs to be fed only once a day, it is simpler. The dog will eat at night or in the evening when you get home. You will walk him in the morning and when you get back from work. But try not to be out of the house more that 8 hours because he has a schedule, he knows exactly when he is given food and when he will be walked. If you don't follow the same schedule most days, the dog will be stressed and the house a mess.

Never leave the dog alone when you are planning to go on a trip or on a vacation. If possible, take him with you or if not, hire someone or ask some friends to take care of him.

It is important to make it up to your dog. If you have to leave him alone a lot during work days, try and spend more time with him on weekends and holidays. Behavior issues can be easily corrected if you just play more with the dog.

One of the best books on dog training.

Store Bought or Home Made Dog Food?

Contributed by Sharda Baker

The massive pet food recall of 2007 had millions of dog owners terrified that they had unwittingly been poisoning their beloved pets. If you and your dog survived that frightening time, you have undoubtedly been more careful in your choice of dog foods ever since. But how is the average dog owner to know what's really going into doggie's dish? One way to know for sure is to make your pet's food at home, but that can be very time-consuming. The other option is to know which commercial food is the the best nutrition/" TARGET="_blank">dog food, that is both safe and nutritious.

The question of what to feed your dog is a sensitive one as there are many different camps advocating many different ideas, facts, and theories. For many owners, the question is solved by finances. To put is simply, if the owner can afford the nutrition/" TARGET="_blank">dog food then that type and brand is going to go into the food bowl. While this approach may seem sensible, especially when the monthly budget is taken into consideration, it may not be best. Why feed the dog sub-par ingredients and face vet bills later on that may have been avoided in the first place by choosing the right food?

The dog foods found on most grocery store shelves, the generic or store brand ones, are not usually considered among the best foods for your pet. More often than not, these brands are full of ingredients that are lower in quality and inexpensive. While these brands provide a cheaper alternative to the other brands, they are generally not recommended. A quick glance at the ingredients can provide an example of lower quality food.

Generic meat ingredients without a specific species named is not a good thing to feed a dog. Avoid phrases such as "meat byproducts" or "meat and bone meal". Look for brands that can list the animal that they use as an ingredient, like "chicken meal" or "beef". Also, avoid any brands that list corn as their main ingredient. You are feeding a dog, after all, and not a pig or a cow.

But, you say, Fido is delighted with the store brand food, which retails for half of what the brand names do? That's because Fido's been tricked. Chemicals have been added to that food, creating a pleasing color and aroma which Fido finds irresistible and which hides the fact that the food is not one of the best dog foods. These chemicals are easy enough to spot if you know what to look for. Coloring agents, drying agents, and texturizers are just some of the tell-tale ingredients that should cause you to sit up and take notice.

There are, of course, premium commercial dog foods which provide the highest grade ingredients free of harmful additives, and in another newsletter we'll explore how to find them. But they will cost a premium price, and if you are a hands-on dog owner, you might be more interested in preparing your pet's meals yourself.

This option of making pet food at home has become more and more popular over the past few years as it allows owners to choose directly what is going into their dog's bowl. Feeding doggie homemade food, however, does not mean allowing him or her to dine on the family's leftovers. It means researching the proper balance of proteins, carbohydrates, and fats for your dog, and finding the foods which will provide them in an easily digestible form. One of the best known homemade diets for the canine set is the BARF diet.

And now--what does BARF stand for? Seems you can say it stands for a couple of things, but the most often cited explanation is Bones And Raw Food. The other one floating around on the Internet is Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, which is attributed to Dr. Ian Billinghurst, one of the original Barfers.

The BARF Diet is suitable for many dogs but it takes time and dedication on the owner's part. While there are noticeable differences between the BARF diet and a diet based on commercial dog foods, the purpose of both diets is to provide the dog with the best nutrients possible.

BARF is about feeding a biologically appropriate diet for a dog that is made up of raw whole foods like those eaten by their ancestors. This would include muscle meat, bone, fat, organ meat and vegetable materials and any other foods that mimic what the wild ancestors ate.

The BARF diet, however, is not always the best method of feeding your dog and it takes a great amount of time to prepare and research the foods. Conversely, commercial brand dog foods have undergone several tests to insure that they are compatible with the dietary needs of the dog. Basically, a dog will receive just about the same benefits of the BARF diet if he remains on a commercial diet and may even receive more nutrients that way.

The important thing you, as a dog owner, should know is that commercial nutrition/" TARGET="_blank">dog food is not all the same. You can learn much more about what is in each can, pouch, or bag of nutrition/" TARGET="_blank">dog food by becoming educated in label reading, and the AAFCO standards. Ultimately, it's up to you to decide what's the best nutrition/" TARGET="_blank">dog food for your dog.

About the Author

Sharda Baker has published several dog ebooks and audios, including the Internet best selling "Complete Guide to Your Dog's Nutrition.

Learn what vets know.

Dog Food Allergies Don't Blame That Itching on Fleas

Contributed by Sharda Baker

As a devoted dog owner, you're probably on the lookout for even the smallest sign that your pet's life is not as comfortable as you can possibly make it. So when doggie starts scratching at his belly or biting at his back, you may immediately take him or her to the vet for a flea dip. You'll also and use flea bombs all over the house in and attempt to have a flea-free environment for doggie's return.

But what if you've done all of that, and within fifteen minutes of returning home, the scratching and biting resume?

If your dog shows signs of allergies, but you are quite certain it is not from inhalants in the environment, fleas in his coat or other health problems, your dog could suffer from food allergies.

If, for example, your dog has been eating one particular food or a favorite treat for several months or even years, he or she might have developed an allergy to one of the ingredients in that food.

Your dog can go for months or even years eating the same food with no problem, but over time his or her immune system will be accumulating enough antibodies to finally result in an allergic reaction. If your dog has a bad reaction to a food the first time he or she eats it, this is a food intolerance caused by a toxin in the food (and there are, unfortunately, more of them than you'd like to think) but it's not an allergic reaction.

While it's natural to think that if your dog has a food allergy, he or she will exhibit indigestion like nausea or diarrhea, almost all canine food allergies cause severely itching skin, and dogs with food allergies very often chew incessantly at their legs and paws. If your dog has intestinal distress after a meal, you are almost certainly looking at food intolerance and not an allergy.

The difficulty in diagnosing food allergies in dogs is that most dogs who are allergic will suffer from more than one allergy at a time. So even if you were to attempt to diagnose your dog's food allergy by changing his or her diet, and your dog began experiencing the itching skin of a flea allergy, you might mistakenly think the change of diet was ineffective in treating the food allergy.

Finding the Source of the Allergy

The only way to determine the change in diet has been effective is to eliminate all other possible causes for your dog's symptoms, and put your pet on what is known as an "elimination trial " diet. You will feed your dog a diet which consists of a single protein and a single carbohydrate which you have never fed before, and water, for between two and three months. Because a food allergy takes months or years to develop, your dog will not be allergic to the new foods and should not become allergic to them in that amount of time.

Your vet may either recommend a commercial food which will suit the purposes of your elimination trial diet, or may suggest that you prepare your dog's food at home. While your dog is on the elimination diet, you'll have to be disciplined enough to avoid feeding treats or table scraps, and take away the chew toys. If there are other dogs around, keep your pet away from their droppings. Some dogs will nibble on other dogs' waste, and even that will be enough to invalidate your elimination trial diet.

If your dog's symptoms are seriously improved after two or three months on the elimination trial diet, you'll know that a food allergy was causing them. If they haven't improved, or have worsened, you'll have to look elsewhere for their cause, but you can let your pet return to the old way of eating

One precaution: if you decide to make your dog's elimination trial diet yourself, it won't be fortified with the essential vitamins, trace minerals, and fatty acids necessary to maintain your pet's health. So you'll have to get supplements and add them to the food before feeding your pet.

Nothing is as unpleasant to you, a loving dog wonder as watching your cherished companion suffer needlessly. If your dog is constantly biting and itching, and you are reasonable certain that fleas are not responsible, talk to your vet about what you can do to determine if a food allergy is the culprit!

About the Author:

Sharda Baker has published several dog ebook and audios, including the Internet best selling "Complete Guide to Your Dog's Nutrition

Learn what vets know.

Disobedience

There's a difference between disobedience and incomprehension. If your dog isn't obeying a command because he doesn't understand what it is you want him to do, that's not a behavioral problem at all; it simply means that you need to spend some more time together in training.

True disobedience occurs when your dog deliberately does not obey a request or command, although he has full knowledge of what it is that you're asking him to do (and you know this because he's performed it reliably on several occasions beforehand).

Although this may seem like a relatively minor inconvenience, it's actually a pretty serious thing -- not only can it be dangerous for your dog (for example, if he's heading towards a busy road and ignores your 'come' command), but it's also detrimental to your relationship with your dog.

Disobedience is rooted in disrespect. When your dog deliberately does not obey you, he's saying, "I don't respect your authority enough to do what you want me to do".

If you allow him to get away with this, you are allowing him to form the habit of passive-aggression. This is not something that can just be left to "fix itself" -- the problem will worsen, not get better, if you leave it.

It's very important that your dog recognizes that you outrank him in the social hierarchy of the household. The concept of alpha status is one that you need to be familiar with in order to maintain a healthy, functional relationship with your dog.

It may sound cruel from a human perspective, but your dog is happier when he knows that someone else is in charge of making all the decisions -- including his day-to-day behavior and obedience levels.

It is not possible to have a good owner/dog relationship if he does not understand that you are the clear-cut authority figure: he must know that he's beneath you in the chain of command.

Your first step in dealing with generalized disobedience is to reestablish your dominance. Here are some tips on doing so: - When leaving the house and the car, you must always leave before your dog. This is unmistakable alpha behavior: to a dog, only the alpha leaves first. If you allow him to exit the house or the car ahead of you, you are saying to him, "You're stronger than me; you should go first because you're the decision-maker". Inside doors aren't so important, but every time you leave the house or the car to go outside, you must make him wait for you to go first, until you release him from the 'wait' with a release-word.

- Make him wait for his food. Your family and you must always eat before him -- if it means he has to wait an extra half hour or so for his meal, it won't hurt him any. When you put his food down for him, make him sit and wait until you release him to eat. Keep his feeding schedule varied, so he's always aware that you're in charge of his food -- don't allow him to form expectations of when he should be fed.

- Don't allow him free, uninhibited access to the whole house. The house is your den: you're allowing him to be inside. Remind him that you're allowing him into your den -- it's a privilege for him to be there, not a right - by sometimes allowing him inside, and sometimes sending him outside for half an hour or so. Keep certain areas of the house strictly for your own, as well (such as your bed, certain pieces of furniture, or some rooms).

- Never allow your dog to initiate play. If he's nudging you for attention or to start a game, you may think that it's cute and affectionate; but what he's really saying is, "I'm the boss and I'm telling you to play with me right now." If he starts bothering you for attention, ignore him for a few moments: get up and do something else. Wait until he's given up before initiating the play yourself. Playtime is a fantastic way to bond with your dog, but it should be done on your terms, not his.

- When you arrive home, don't rush straight over to him and shower him in affection. That is not alpha behavior at all -- an alpha dog, upon arriving home, doesn't go over to the other dogs and throw himself at them, saying, "Here I am! I missed you guys! Let's have a cuddle!" -- he ignores everyone else, relaxes for a short while, maybe has something to eat, and only interacts with them when he's good and ready. Even though you're probably good and ready to interact with your dog as soon as you get home, it will make more sense to him -- and underscore your authority -- if you ignore him for just three to five minutes upon arriving home.

Another fantastic way of counteracting disobedience is to start -- and maintain -- a basic obedience training plan. You don't have to do anything fancy or super-demanding; just ten minutes a day of learning and enforcing commands. This can drop to five minutes a day once your dog is completely reliable with the commands.

Here are some tips for a good training program:

- Never give a command that you cannot reinforce immediately if he chooses to disobey you. Every time your dog takes the opportunity to ignore your command, he's learning that it's both easier and a lot more fun to ignore you. For example, if you call across the park for him to 'come' as he's playing with some other dogs, the choices are clear-cut to him: he could cut his play-time short and come to you, or he could ignore you -- which is easy, since you're so far away -- and continue to have fun. Until your dog is completely reliable with commands, he should be on a long line or retractable lead so that you can enforce them if necessary.

- Remember to use your voice to the best effect. Praise should be in a light, cheery, happy tone of voice; if possible, smile at the same time. It makes a difference to your tone of voice, and most dogs will study your face to make sense of your expressions, too. Corrections should be uttered in a stern, brook-no-nonsense tone: you don't need to shout, but your voice should be low and authoritative.

- When you're verbally interrupting your dog, it's more effective to shout, "OI!" or "Ah-ah-ah!" rather than saying, "No". The sounds are more clear-cut, and you'll get a better response.

- Do not repeat a command. Remember, you should be training on a leash or a long line: if he ignores you, he gets a short, sharp tug (some call it a 'flick') on the lead to remind him that you're present, and you're in charge. Repeating yourself teaches him to wait for the command to be repeated at least once before he obeys you.

- Five to fifteen minutes per day is an adequate amount of time for training. Any more than this in one sitting, and your dog's concentration will likely lapse: fifteen minutes of intense training, where your dog is concentrating hard on what you want, is enough to send even the most energetic dogs to their beds for a snooze afterwards.

- You can move on to more advanced training and 'tricks' if you feel like it, once your dog's got the basics completely sussed; but it's not something that you should feel like you have to do.

- Another great option is formal obedience training classes. They're a great way of socializing your dog (he gets to interact with other dogs, and those dogs' owners), and also teaches him to concentrate on what you want despite the manifold distractions taking place around him. It's also very helpful to have face-to-face contact with a trained professional: they can pick up on any mistakes you might be making, and give you advice for tightening up your training techniques.

For more information

For further information on typical doggie behavior, including a fantastic resource for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, check out SitStayFetch. Written by a professional dog-trainer, it's an absorbing guide that deals with all the subjects a responsible dog-owner could ever want to know about - well worth a look.

To visit the SitStayFetch website, just click on the link below: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/?aff=cognos&type=nohop

Reward your dog with 180 Fantastic Gourmet Dog Food Recipes

Recognizing, preventing, and handling dog aggression

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there's just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that's how they've survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily -- it's hard to counteract the power of instinct!

But that doesn't mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There's a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place -- and even if prevention hasn't been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

Different types of aggression

There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

- Aggression towards strangers

- Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we're bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details -- right?

Well ... not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

Aggression towards strangers

What is it?

It's pretty easy to tell when a dog's nervy around strange people. He's jumpy and on the alert: either he can't sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he's veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he's tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen?

There's one major reason why a dog doesn't like strange people: he's never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn't necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog's upbringing: in fact, it's pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he's had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you're getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.

It's not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to "Settle down, Roxy, it's OK" -- he has to learn that it's OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy -- and safe around strangers - he'll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn't develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do -- it's more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.

First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there'll be at least two trainers present -- the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there's at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don't get out of hand).

Socialization doesn't just stop with puppy preschool, though. It's an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.

Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.

Aggression towards family members

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:

- He's trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there's actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

- He's not comfortable with the treatment/handling he's getting from you or other members of the family.

What's resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he's eating, or giving you "the eye" (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time -- it's in their natures. Sometimes they're possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they're used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or "dominance") in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else's turf, etc etc).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.

This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he's going to get cheeky. If he's really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he'll start to act aggressively.

Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a "dominant" dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.

To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he'd never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys -- because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you're the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in "time-out", either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.

- If you're not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.

- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he's trying to say -- this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively

- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes -- maybe two or three of these per day).

Why doesn't my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate "I'm the boss" gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won't tolerate it.) Others -- usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age -- aren't comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.

When you clip a dog's nails, it's very easy to "quick" him -- that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with -- a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog's sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs -- if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I "retrain" him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word: yes. It's a lot easier if you start from a young age -- handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled -- it's only older ones who haven't had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet -- whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly -- with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.

The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.

Take things slowly. Don't push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.

Dogs show aggression for a reason: they're warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can't seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it's best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog's reaction to the experience first!)

For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out Secrets to Dog Training.

It's a complete owner's guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership.

To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, Secrets to Dog Training is well worth a look.

You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining

Learn what vets know.

Does your dog chew grass?

My dog crops grass like a cow. He eats it with gusto whenever he encounters it, to the extent that my friends have begun to refer to him, jokingly, as 'The Ruminant'. This habit of his doesn't bother me at all, since it seems to have no ill-effects on him whatsoever - although, when I'm standing outside in the cold waiting for him to relieve himself during one of his infrequent small-hours toilet calls (normally his timing is much more considerate), it's hard not to hop impatiently from foot to foot while he enthusiastically tears out the mandatory five to seven mouthfuls of grass, chews thoroughly, and swallows, instead of just getting on with the task at hand.

Unless your dog's digestion is suffering unwanted upheavals from his grass-eating habit, it's not really a problem. Dogs have been eating grass since the dawn of time (or at least, of the species) with few ill-effects, aside from the odd bout of vomiting - and really, this is one of those things that seems to bother owners a lot more than their dogs; most dogs, will simply re-ingest the vomitus and go about their day unfazed.

Truthfully, nobody really knows why dogs eat grass. There are a variety of theories as to why animals that are widely regarded as carnivores would willingly consume moderate quantities of vegetation.

One of said theories pertains to the fact that dogs are not, actually, carnivores. They're omnivores, which literally means, "eat anything".

This theory postulates that the modern-day dog eats grass in a deliberate attempt to supplement his diet with nutrients that are missing from his daily meals. The main crux, thrust, and gist of this argument centers around the idea that dogs, as omnivorous animals, are eating too much meat and need to balance this out with some greenery on the side, much as you or I might crave a nice tart salad to go with our steak.

If you ask me, this is nonsense. First of all, most of us feed our dogs primarily on kibble, which contains the full spectrum of fully-absorbable nutrients that dogs require (or at least, high quality kibble does; I can't vouch for the quality of supermarket-brand dog food). If you're feeding your dog on meat alone, whether canned or fresh, there may be some substance to this theory -- dogs need a wide range of vitamins and minerals for optimum health, most of which are not contained within fresh meat. It's true that canned meat has some added nutrients; the main problem with canned food is that it's too soft and jelly-like to maintain healthy teeth and bowels. Dogs fed primarily on canned food are far more prone to developing dental disease at a relatively early age (not to mention an increased incidence of constipation and flatulence, from the lack of fiber and roughage).

As far as nutrition/" TARGET="_blank">dog food goes, unless your dog's on a specific, prescribed diet, kibble should constitute the main part of his diet -- you can add a few spoonfuls of canned meat for variety and temptation, if you like.

Another popular theory is that dogs use grass as a sort of natural emetic: that, since a nauseous dog lacks the phalangeal structure necessary for the good old 'finger down the throat' move, he'll resort to nature's bounty as an alternative. It's true that grass does sometimes make dogs vomit -- those tickly stems can irritate the stomach lining, and there have been a few occasions when I've seen dogs vomit up a chunk of something that's proved to be indigestible, and along with the offending article, there's also been a clump of grass in the vomit too.

However -- and I'm sorry to pour cold water over this one too -- I have to say that this is pure conjecture, and somewhat nonsensical conjecture at that. Dogs are perfectly capable of vomiting all by themselves, without the assistance of grass; I've seen too many dogs enjoying a post-prandial mouthful of mixed lawn greens, without any regurgitational side effects, to lend the theory any credence.

If you're worried that eating grass is going to hurt your dog, you can lay that concern to rest right now. The one possible downside is that he'll irritate his throat or stomach lining, but this issue will only cause him strife for a second or two at most: he'll either cough the problem away, or will toss his cookies without further ado (which rarely bothers most dogs).

Really, grass-eating is nothing to worry about -- it's a life-long habit with many dogs, and if yours does decide that it's no longer in his best interests, he'll simply stop eating it all by himself.

You may need to keep an eye on him around recently treated lawns, or anywhere where nasties like pesticides, snail bait, and rat poison could be around, since most garden chemicals are highly toxic to dogs. Ideally, you'd be keeping an eye on him anyway if he's around those substances, but grass-eaters are at higher risk than most since they're more likely to ingest plant matter that herbicides and other toxic chemicals have been sprayed onto.

In addition to this, it's also best if he's kept away from those clumps of dried-out grass that lie around on the lawn after it's been freshly mowed. It shouldn't be a problem if the grass is mowed by a push-mower; but if it's been through a gas-operated machine, the grass will be tainted with petrol fumes and grease, which at best will taste horrible and at worst can make him pretty sick. (Fortunately for your peace of mind and your dog's peace of digestive tract, all but the most food-obsessed dogs will usually spurn this smelly fare in favor of clean, fresh grass.)

If your dog's grass eating is really bothering you, presumably this is out of concern for your lawn, rather than your dog, since there's ample evidence that dogs suffer no adverse effects from frequent grassy snacks. There are a couple of things you can try doing to reduce his desire to supplement his diet with eatables from the backyard -- but, because this is one area of dogdom that nobody really knows that much about (scientists are frankly mystified by the appetite of the average dog for verdure), the success rate is more hit-and-miss than guaranteed:

* Try varying his diet slightly. Unlike humans, dogs do not need a widely varied diet to keep them "interested" in food; they're creatures of routine, and diet is no exception to this rule. However, since one of the theories that attempts to explain why dogs eat grass is centered around a lack of nutritional variety, you can try introducing various tasty vegetables into his food: most dogs enjoy tomatoes, carrots (either steamed or raw) and chopped apples. Be sure to stay well away from grapes, raisins, and onions, since these are toxic to dogs.

* Supervise him whenever he's around grass. This may not be a particularly user-friendly option, especially for off-lead walks; you'll have to keep a real eagle-eye on your canine walking buddy to make sure he's not making a dash for the greenery.

Realistically, there's not really a lot you can do about your dog's grass-eating habit (aside from deny him access to grass utterly, which wouldn't be fair to your dog and would make your daily dog-walking expeditions more of an exercise in frustration than a relaxing stroll).

The general consensus from the experts seems to be that grass-eating, although somewhat of an enigmatic pastime to us humans, is just 'one of those things' as far as your dog is concerned. It won't do him any harm, and you can be sure that if he's eating it, he's enjoying it -- so there's really not a lot to be said for depriving him of that simple pleasure.

Furthermore, and in addition to the logistics of permitting this penchant, I've got to say that watching your dog ripping up and chewing generous mouthfuls of turf with an expression of half-lidded bliss on his face can provide you (and passersby) with some unexpected entertainment when the two of you are out and about together!

For further reading ...

For more information on dog psychology and general canine behavioral traits, with a particular focus on problematic behaviors, you'll probably want to take a look at Secrets to Dog Training. It's a complete, detailed manual for the intelligent and responsible owner, and covers everything from obedience training through to preventing and handling a huge variety of common problem behaviors. Well worth checking out!

You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training website by clicking on the link below: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining

More information on nutrition for your dog here.

Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It's an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog's isolation/separation from her owner(s).

In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.

Dogs are social animals -- they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you're going to go for (particularly if you're going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these 'shelter dogs' have undergone significant trauma in their lives -- they've been abandoned by their previous owners -- and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn't going to pull the same trick.

- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they're usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.

- Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you're absent much more than you're present in your dog's life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you're about to leave (she'll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you've left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it's raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing.

Upon your return, she'll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.)

This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog's excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.)

If you're behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it's tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless -- after all, she's so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? - but in actuality, you're just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she's as happy as Larry when you return -- but, when it's time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.

Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog's tendency towards anxiety. Here's a short list of do's and don'ts:

Do:

- Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you're leaving for work in the morning, she'll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you've got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won't see you -- the person she really cares about - for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.

- Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew -- why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy -- and so she can't smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It'll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure.

- When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it'll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she's got company.

- If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that's the next best thing to being out and about in it.

- Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then -- without leaving! -- sit back down and don't go anywhere. Do this until she's not reacting any more. When there's no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there's no reaction. Gradually work up -- gradually being the operative word here! -- until you're able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

Do not:

- Act overtly sympathetic when she's crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it's essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can't tell that you feel sorry for her: don't ever say, "It's OK, good girl" when she's upset!

If you're interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog's separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training.

It's a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog's problem behaviors.

All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there's a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.

You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining

More information on nutrition for your dog here.

Digging

There are two extremes of opinion when it comes to dogs and their digging habits: one, that a dog is a dog, and we should permit him to express his true canine nature by allowing him free reign over the yard and flowerbeds; and two, that a flowerbed is a flowerbed, and no dog should even think about expression his dogginess if such an expression comes at the price of a season's worth of rosebuds.

My own viewpoint tends to favor the middle ground. Although plenty of dogs do love to dig, and it's healthy for them to be permitted to indulge in this habit from time to time, there's a difference between permitting your dog to express his inner puppy, and allowing him to run rampant in the yard. I don't see why a dog should have to come at the price of a garden, and vice versa: flowers and dogs can coexist peacefully. If your dog's developed a taste for digging, it'll just take a bit of time (and some crafty ingenuity) on your part to resolve the issue satisfactorily.

First of all, if you have yet to adopt a dog and your concern for the fate of your flower-beds is purely hypothetical, consider the breed of dog that you'd like. If you've got your eye on a specific mixed-breed dog, what seems to be the most prominent?

The reason that I ask is simply because breed often plays a significant role in any given dog's personal valuation of digging as a rewarding pastime -- terriers and Nordic breeds in particular (Huskies, Malamutes, some members of the Spitz family) seem to particularly enjoy digging.

Of course, when you get right down to the sum and substance, each dog is first and foremost an individual, and there's no guaranteed way to predict whether or not your chosen familial addition is going to be a burrower or not. But if you're trying to reduce the likelihood of an involuntarily-landscaped garden as much as possible, I suggest you stay away from all breeds of terrier (the name means "go to earth", after all!) and the Nordic breeds.

Why do dogs dig?

In no particular order, here are some of the more common reasons that a dog will dig:

* Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of that nervous energy.

* Boredom. Bored dogs need a "job" to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.

* Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.

* The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature -- no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it's nearly impossible to confine them. For a four-legged Houdini, it's not the digging in itself that's the reward, it's the glorious unknown that exists beyond the fenceline.

* Separation anxiety. To a dog that's seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs -- but because it's so complex, we won't be dealing with it in this newsletter. Instead, you can find excellent resources for both preventing and coping with the condition at http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

Curbing the habit

Many of the reasons contributing to your dog's desire to dig suggest their own solutions: if your dog's not getting enough exercise (generally speaking, at least forty-five minutes' worth of vigorous walking per day), take him for more walks. If he's bored, give him some toys and chews to play with during your absence, and wear him out before you leave so he spends most of the day snoozing. An escape-artist dog might need to be crated, or at least kept inside the house where he's less likely to be able to break free.

For those dogs who just like to dig as a pastime in itself, though, here are a few basic tips for controlling inappropriate digging as much as is reasonably possible:

* Restrict your dog's access. This is the most effective thing you can do: if he's never in the yard without active supervision, there's no opportunity for digging.

* Use natural deterrent. 99.9% of dogs will shy back, horrified, from the prospect of digging anywhere that there's dog poop. Even the ones who like to eat poop (a condition known as coprophagia) generally won't dig anywhere near it -- it offends their basic, fastidious dislike of soiling their coat and paws.

* Use nature's own wiles. If the digging is bothering you because it's upsetting the more delicate blooms in your garden, plant hardier blossoms: preferably, those with deep roots and thorny defenses. Roses are ideal.

* A more time-consuming, but super-effective way of handling the issue: roll up the first inch or two of turf in your yard, and lay down chicken-wire underneath it. Your dog won't know it's there until he's had a few tries at digging, but once he's convinced himself that it's pointless (which won't take long), he'll never dig in that yard again.

Accept your dog's need for an outlet: give him a place to dig

If your dog is set on tunneling your yard into a grassless, crater-studded lunar landscape, but you're equally determined to prevent this from happening at all costs, please take a moment to consider before embarking on a grueling and time-consuming preventative strategy.

Setting yourself the goal of eradicating all digging behavior, period, is pretty unrealistic: it's not fair on you (since, really, you're setting yourself up for failure), and it's not really fair on your poor dog either -- if he's a true-blue digger, it's just part of his personality, and he needs at least some opportunity to express that.

But a lawn and a dog don't have to be mutually exclusive: the most humane and understanding thing for you to do in this case is simply to redirect his digging energy.

You do this by allocating him an area where he's allowed to dig as much as he pleases. Once this zone's been established, you can make it crystal-clear that there's to be absolutely no digging in the rest of the yard -- and you can enforce your rules with a clear conscience, since you know your dog now has his own little corner of the world to turn upside down and inside out as he chooses.

But what if you don't have a "spare corner" of the yard? What if the whole thing, grass, flowerbeds, and gravel path, is just too dear to your heart? That's OK too -- invest in a sandbox, which you can place anywhere in the garden.

You can even make one yourself (the deeper, the better, obviously). Fill it with a mixture of sand and earth, and put some leaves or grass on top if you like - get your dog interested in it by having a scratch around yourself, until he gets the idea.

Make sure the boundaries are clear

To make it clear to him that the sandbox is OK but that everywhere else is a no-dig zone, spend a little time supervising him. When he starts to dig in the box (you can encourage this by shallowly burying a few choice marrowbones in there), praise him energetically -- and if he starts digging anywhere else, correct him straight away with an "Ah-ah-aaaah!" or "No!".

Then, redirect him immediately to the sandbox, and dole out vociferous praise when digging recommences.

To really clarify the lesson, give him a treat when digging gets underway in the sandbox -- the close proximity between the correction (for digging out of the sandbox) and praise/reward (for digging in the sandbox) will ensure that your point strikes home.

Further reading

For more information on recognizing and dealing with problematic behaviors like digging, chewing, barking, and aggression, check out Secrets to Dog Training. It's a detailed how-to manual for the responsible owner, and is packed with all the information you'll need for raising a healthy, happy, well-adjusted pooch: from problem behaviors to dog psychology to obedience work, SitStayFetch has it covered.

You can check out Secrets to Dog Training by clicking on the link below: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining

Reward your dog with 180 Fantastic Gourmet Dog Food Recipes

Eating Poop

Coprophagia (poop eating)

Coprophagia (sometimes called coprophagy, or poop-eating) is a pretty disgusting habit that fortunately only some dogs indulge in. It seems to be "one of those things" as far as dogs go: a behavior that defies logic and scientific study, and mystifies dog trainers and veterinarians around the world.

Many, if not most, dogs will eat the feces of other animals (particularly other dogs, cats, sheep, and horses) with gusto whenever the opportunity presents itself. It's a very common behavior in dogs, but not particularly well understood.

The simple truth is that nobody really knows why some dogs will make a beeline for a pile of poop that's lying on the grass. It's natural for dogs to want to sniff the poop - almost all dogs will do this, since the depositor's anal glands have left a kind of Post-It note there for other dogs to "read" - and it's just as natural (seemingly) for some dogs to want to consume these little signposts. It's just that we don't really know why they do it. Actually eating the feces seems to be a matter of personal preference, from dog to dog: some dogs derive great satisfaction from consuming poop, whereas other dogs appear to be simply more fastidious by nature.

There are several popular theories about the causes of this strange habit:

- A dog that eats poop is doing so in order to supplement his own, nutritionally-deficient diet. He is not getting enough vitamins from the food he's given in his own home, so he chooses to eat the poop of other animals (usually dogs and cats) in the hope that there may be some residual nutrition available for him to sponge up the second time around. This is a faintly plausible theory, apart from the fact that studies have been conducted on dogs suffering from malnutrition and well-nourished dogs with a clean bill of health: and the incidence of cophrophagia among both groups was virtually identical.

- The behavior may be derived from the carnivorous/scavenging heritage of our dogs. When carnivores make a kill, they typically consume the entire carcass of the animal -- everything from the actual flesh to sinews and tendons to "offal", which includes the stomach, digestive tract, and its contents (poop). It's been suggested by some that coprophagia is a simple and natural extension of this instinctive behavior.

- It may be related to boredom or stress. The particulars of this theory are hazy, but essentially, bored or stressed dogs -- such as those that spend too much time on their own, those that lead understimulated, underexercised lives, and those that are excluded from family life and adequate human attention and affection -- often succumb to strange and compulsive habits, like pulling out their own fur, spinning in circles for hours on end, and (theoretically, at least) poop eating. In other words, a dog will eat poop simply because there's nothing else for him to do.

- Internal parasites, such as worms, may be leaching nutrients and calories from the dog's stomach and digestive tract. Typically, a dog with worms will have a voracious appetite (even more so than usual!) and will consume all the food that he has access to. In more advanced cases, an infested dog will turn to technically-edible substances (such as poop), which he would not normally consider appetizing, to fill the gap.

- Improperly housetrained dogs sometimes eat their own poop in an attempt to conceal the "crime" from their owners and thus avoid detection. This is especially true of dogs whose owners tend to punish them for housetraining mistakes, whether out of impatience/frustration or because they believe that the dog is somehow doing it to "spite" them. A dog that's pooping inappropriately indoors either has not been housetrained correctly, in which case the accidents are not his fault; or the reason is medical in nature. To rule the latter out, the dog should be taken for a check-up at the vet (particularly if the indoor defecation has started suddenly and without warning).

- Nursing female dogs eat the poop of their puppies as a means of keeping the den area clean, and of hiding the existence of her pups from potential predators. It's thought by some that one of the reasons that coprophagia is so commonplace in puppies, especially, is because they're emulating the behavior of their mother.

Clearly, theories abound on the subject. Unfortunately, most of them lack merit: the simple truth is that, although we can guess as much as we like as to the reasons that our dogs willingly and enthusiastically ingest poop pretty much whenever the opportunity presents itself, nobody knows with any degree of certainty as to why they do it.

Although it's nearly impossible to "cure" a dog with a taste for poop of this socially unacceptable habit, here is a short list of tips for coping with the behavior and minimizing it as much as possible:

- Clean up the poop in your own backyard as soon as the dog toilets. If he doesn't have access to it, he can't eat it -- and it'll save you from dealing with the flies, the odor, and the eventuality of someone treading in it.

- Teach your dog the "leave it" command for those times when you want to be able to walk him off-lead. Reliable obedience in the "leave it" makes off-lead walks a real pleasure (and it's a lot safer for your dog, too -- the usefulness of "leave it" applies to things like herbicide, snail bait, and broken glass as well as poop!).

- You can try booby-trapping the poop in the backyard with things like Tabasco sauce and lemon juice, but this seems like a great deal of (rather disgusting) trouble to go to when you could just pick the poop up. In addition to the natural deterrent of having to repeatedly handle specimens of dog turds, reports of success from this technique are pretty erratic -- in most cases, it seems that a dog bent on coprophagy isn't going to be put off by a brief burning sensation in his mouth.

- There are substances you can buy from pet stores and vet clinics which, when put into the dog's food (or the food of the household pet whose poop he's eating) makes the poop smell and taste very unappealing to dogs. One such product is called "For-Bid".

- You can experiment with adding natural deterrents -- such as a few tablespoonfuls of canned pumpkin or pineapple, or fresh grated zucchini -- to your dog's meals. Again, anecdotal evidence suggests that most dogs will readily eat these substances, but that their presence in poop makes it unpalatable.

For Further Information

For more information on bewildering canine behaviors -- what they are, how to recognize them, why they happen, and what to do about them -- check out Secrets to Dog Training. Written by an experienced dog-trainer, it's packed with useful and valuable information on training your dog and coping with problematic behaviors. No responsible dog-owner should be without a copy!

You can check out Secrets to Dog Training by clicking on the following link: *http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining

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